We all deserve a break now and then, but what about your car?  We are often worried how our car runs, if it will start, or how have the kids trashed it today.  Too often, the car’s ability to stop safely gets ignored until the dreaded squeal that wakes the entire neighborhood or you hear the sound like a cement mixer.  We have all heard these sounds on our cars and others’.  What could have been done to prevent a costly repair?  The answer is both simple and complex.  Today’s world of brakes is vastly different from that of 15 or 20 years ago.  There are anti-lock brakes, traction control, 4-wheel disc brakes, and many other brake materials.  What is right for my car and me?

Prevention is always best.  Have your mechanic look at your brake system at least once a year.  Notice I said brake system, not just brakes.  The car’s entire braking function must be examined.  The brake fluid, brake light bulbs, parking brake, ABS system, brake cables, and hydraulic components are parts of a complex system designed to safely stop your car in routine and emergency situations.  The actual brake pads or shoes are just small parts.  There are adjustments that should be made annually even if all is well.  Have your mechanic look at the brakes (and much more) with every tire rotation; assuming you rotate your tires every 5,000 – 8,000 miles.

What could be wrong with my brake fluid if there are no leaks?  Why do I need to flush my brake system?  Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it attracts water, thus contaminating the fluid.  This naturally occurs over time.  Through the wear and tear of brakes, the fluid also builds up with other contaminants such as copper, brake dust, or oils.  This inhibits the function of the hydraulic portion of your brakes, which is the principle means of activating your brakes.  You push on the pedal causing a piston in the master cylinder to push (at high pressure), fluid to the calipers and/or brake cylinders which in turn presses the brake pad or shoes against the rotors and drums.  High temperatures are created with all this friction further breaking down the capabilities of the fluid.  With most cars that have anti-lock brakes, this becomes more critical because of the pumps and motors used in this system.  Several times a year we find the wrong fluid used, causing massive, costly failures.  Never, ever guess at the proper fluid for your brakes – know for certain or you could spend thousands in repair.  Brake systems should be flushed every 3 years or as needed.

Okay, so I have done all of those precautions and my brakes are still worn out; how do I know what I truly need in repairs?  What type of brakes do I need: semi-metallic, ceramic, organic, carbon fiber or something else?  The easy answer is to use a repair shop you trust.  The worn parts can be shown to you and other repairs should be explained to you.  Rotors and drums should always be machined to provide a proper surface to fit against the pads or shoes.  There are strict tolerances for the thickness of rotors and diameters of drums that must be followed.  If these parts are outside of these measurements, they must be replaced.  The materials used to make the brake pads can be just about anything.  What is best for your car is generally what was on the car when it was new.  In most cases this is a semi-metallic material, but we do see more ceramic options. Virtually any material can be used to make brakes.  There are options available on most cars that can be tailored to your driving situation and needs.  Always go with a premium product. There are far too many variables in this equation.  How you brake, where you drive, the climate, the environment your car is in factor into what makes your brakes work properly.

Brakes can be complicated, but your mechanic can help you understand them.  Always ask why something is needed and ask why something is not being done.  Remember, check the brakes at least once a year, have adjustments done as needed, watch for warning lights, and listen for any odd noises.

The wheel: arguably, the most influential invention since the dawn of mankind, with the possible exception of homemade fudge, of course.  Without it, we would probably still be hauling things on the tops of our heads and would still consider 40 miles just within walking distance. A long road the wheel has traveled– pun intended– to realize its current design, namely the adoption of the rubber protective cushion we all know as the tire. Without the tire, driving would become a truly disagreeable experience. Moving 75 miles per hour down even the smoothest road surface, without tires, would just about rattle the teeth out of your head, as any of the Flintstone’s family would agree.

A properly functioning tire remains something rarely thought of while it is functional, but the slightest change can create many different problems for the driver. Tires hold their shape using a steel cage wrapped in rubber or another rubber-like compound. The thickness of the steel cable, or belts, used to maintain the integrity of the tire is nominal. The smallest pothole or chunk of ice can cause the steel belts to shift or even break, instigating an “out-of-round” situation for the tire. These cords maintain the round shape of the tire so any shift or break creates a circumstance akin to– if you can imagine– sitting on a fully inflated balloon. Obviously an out-of -round tire will feel like you’re driving over a small rock over and over, especially at highway speeds. Additional problems may also occur while driving on an out-of-round tire. Abnormal tire wear– excessive wear on either the inside or outside of the tire– can cause the vehicle to pull one way or the other and put undue stress on the suspension and steering systems. Needless to say, any one of these problems left unattended can easily mushroom into serious problems and costly repairs.

Tread depth represents another easily overlooked creator of expensive repairs. The average person will generally wait until all that remains of their tire is a nice smooth surface, possibly displaying steel cords in places. This is not good. A tire in this condition, referred to in Industry slang as a “may pop,” may actually blow at any moment. There is also a much larger chance of a steel belt breaking as discussed above. On any given tire, placed in between the tread blocks, lies a piece of protruding rubber called the wear indicator. Tire manufacturers place this indicator, usually 2 or 3/32nds of an inch above the point of being considered “bald,” first to give the owner some leeway from the time a new tire is needed to the time it is replaced. Secondly, tire manufacturers use different types of rubber and silica compounds to wrap the tire and this wear bar indicates the last layer of rubber before the steel cords start to show. Once a tire has reached the tread depth indicator the tire becomes very thin, making it much easier to pick up nails and increases the likelihood of blowout. A tire blowout on the highway can be bad news for anyone involved, including the vehicles around you.

Another much overlooked tire issue lies with a tire’s air pressure. Tire pressure set either too low or too high can wear your tires out prematurely and have major effects on the vehicle’s gas mileage. A tire with too low of air pressure will wear faster on the outside edges while too high of air pressure wears a tire in the middle of the tread. Air pressure set just right will wear the tire evenly all the way across. To find the right air pressure setting for your vehicle there is a sticker in the driver’s door jam with all the pertinent info on tire size and pressure, along with a great many other details about your vehicle. With the ridiculous rise in fuel costs lately a driver must use any possible way to cut down on fuel consumption. A tire set at too low an air pressure creates an undue load on the vehicle and can create a damaging effect on the vehicle’s gas mileage. Driving with a low tire, you can relate to driving through a mud bog wherever you drive, and the lower the tire the higher the fuel consumption. Tire pressure may be the simplest, which of course means the most overlooked, problem with any tire, so have your air pressure checked on a regular basis.

And so ends our reflection on tires, the great protector of the most influential invention in our great history, and on a side note, ourselves.

When we take our ailing car into the shop to be checked out, there is usually a diagnostic charge.  Exactly what is this?  Is there a charge to tell me I have a flat tire?  If all you do is read the scan tool then why is there a fee involved?  Often shops charge for any and all examinations of the car, no matter how minor.  Others charge only for legitimate time spent on the diagnosis.  Which is proper?  When technician’s time is spent to determine the problem, a fee should be charged.  When you visit a doctor’s office, you seldom see the doctor, usually the assistant, but you do pay for that visit.  Plus, if you’re  referred to another doctor, you pay for that visit, too.  A repair shop is much the same.

Time and effort is spent to exam the patient (your car) and an evaluation is made.  Do we and can we fix this, or does the patient go elsewhere?  We have on occasion send cars to other shops (specialists) if we believe they can better serve you.  And at times we charge for our time.  But what does this diagnostic term really mean?

After the initial exam or scan, there is usually a path or schematic to follow.  Depending on the error code that is found this can be a few steps or dozens.  The error code we pull from the scan only indicates that a sensor or reading is operating outside of a  set parameters determined by the car builder.  We may find a bad sensor or that a faulty part is causing this sensor to give bad (at times false) readings to one of the car’s computers.  The initial problem found might be only the first of several.  The sequence of the circuits must be followed to check for other issues.  A good example is a cylinder misfire core.  There are many causes for this.  A spark plug might be bad, a coil, an injector and many other causes.  The code only points to a particular cylinder or cylinders.  We have to spend time and effort to determine the real problem.  There is the real cause for the charge, plus charges for the actual repairs.  

At times the diagnostic charge will cover a portion of the repairs, often not.  If part of the charge is for the tear down and removal of parts then some of the fee maybe waived.  Much like removing the transmission to see that the clutch is bad; everything is already in pieces so no diag charges may apply.

This is where having a good relationship with your repair shop comes into play.  If you are a regular, they may adjust the fee.  If they cannot properly diagnose the problem they may not charge you (unlike the doctor’s office).  It is important to develop that relationship so that you know what to expect and to be willing to pay for legitimate diagnostic labors.  

 
NONE OF US EVER WANT TO HAVE OUR CAR BREAKDOWN, BUT IT IS ALMOST INEVITABLE; AFTERALL IT IS A MECHANICAL AND ELECTRICAL DEVICE.  BUT WHAT CAN BE DONE TO LESSEN THE CHANCES OR PREVENT THE INEVITABLE?  THERE ARE ACTUALLY MANY THINGS THAT WE CAN DO.  SOME ARE VERY SIMPLE AND COST NOTHING, OTHERS DO HAVE A COST.  BY FOLLOWING THESE SIMPLE RECOMMENDATIONS YOU CAN SAVE MONEY, ALSO.

START OFF BY TAKING A SLOW WALK AROUND YOUR CAR.  EXAMINE THE BODY, GLASS, LIGHTS, AND TIRES.  ARE THERE SCATCHES OR DENTS, BROKEN LIGHTS OR LENSES?  ARE THE TIRES PROPERLY INFLATED?  DO THEY SHOW EVEN WEAR OR IS THERE UNUSUAL WEAR PATTERNS?  DO YOU SEE BULGES IN THE SIDEWALLS?  NOW LOOK UNDER THE CAR FOR ANY SIGNS OF LEAKS.  NOTE THE LOCATION OF ANY OF THE LEAKS AND COLOR OF FLUID IF POSSIBLE.  ALSO LOOK FOR ANYTHING THAT IS HANGING FROM THE CAR OR APPEARS TO BE LOWER THAN NORMAL.

NEXT OPEN THE HOOD AND TAKE A LOOK AROUND.  LOOK FOR THE FAN BELT/BELTS, COOLANT HOSES, VARIOUS FLUID RESERVOIRS, AND BATTERY.  DON’T KNOW WHERE TO LOOK, STOP BY YOUR REPAIR SHOP AND HAVE THEM SHOW YOU.  CHECK THE BELT FOR CRACKS OR FRAYED EDGES.  IF SO IT IS TIME FOR REPLACEMENT BEFORE IT BREAKS.  EXAMINE THE HOSES FOR SIGNS OF LEAKS AND FEEL EACH ONE–WHILE ENGINE IS COLD!  DO THEY FEEL HARD OR BRITTLE, SOFT AND SPONGY; OIL SOAKED?  CHECK THE LEVEL OF EACH OF THE FLUIDS AND THE CONDITION OF EACH.  NONE OF THE FLUIDS SHOULD SEEM AS THOUGH THERE IS DIRT IN THEM.  CONSIDER HAVING THE DIRTY SYSTEMS FLUSHED AND FLUID REPLACED.  THE BATTERY TERMINALS SHOULD BE MOSTLY CLEAN WITH VERY LITTLER CORROSION.  EXCESSIVE CORROSION IS A SIGN OF A WEAK BATTERY, SOON TO GO BAD.  HAVE THE BATTERY AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TESTED.

NOW START THE ENGINE AND LISTEN.  BE SURE AND TURN OFF THE RADIO.  DO YOU HEAR ANY SQUEALS, CHIRPS, GROWLING OR OTHER ODD NOISES?  IF SO GET A PROFESSIONAL OPINION.  IS THE IDLE SMOOTH OR DOES IT SEEM TO MISS OR SURGE?  GO FOR A SHORT DRIVE IN A QUIET AREA WITH WINDOWS DOWN.  AGAIN, LISTEN TO THE CAR.  ARE THERE NOISES THAT DO NOT SEEM RIGHT?  IF ALL SEEMS TO BE OK, THEN NOTE THIS AS NORMAL AND REPEAT THIS DRIVE EVERY COUPLE OF WEEKS.  ANY UNUSUAL NOISE SHOULD BE CAUSE FOR CONCERN.  BE SURE AND APPLY THE BRAKES AND LISTEN.  ANY NOISE THERE, HAVE THE BRAKES CHECKED IMMEDIATELY.  TURN ON THE WIPERS, AIR CONDITIONER, HEATER, LIGHTS AND OTHER ITEMS TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WORKS.  ALSO, NEXT TRIP TO THE CAR WASH; BE SURE TO WASH THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND UNDER THE CAR.  SPRAY OFF THE WHEELS AND BRAKE AREAS AS BEST YOU CAN. 

PERHAPS THE BEST THING FOR YOUR CAR IS AN EXAMINATION ONCE A YEAR OR MORE.  FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S GUIDELINES FOR MAINTANANCE.  THIS ALLOWS A PROFESSIONAL TO EXAMINE THESE ITEMS AND MORE.  WHILE A TECHNICIAN CANNOT PREDICT THE FUTURE, THEY CAN HEAD OFF SOME PROBLEMS.  HAVE THE TIRES ROTATED AND BALANCED AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR AND THE ALIGNMENT ONCE A YEAR.  DO NOT IGNORE ANY ODD NOISES FROM YOUR CAR.  CATCHING THE PROBLEM SOONER CAN SAVE MONEY.  TRUST YOUR REPAIR SHOP WHEN THEY MAKE A RECOMMENDATION FOR SERVICE.  THEY DO HAVE YOUR BEST INTEREST IN MIND.

You have probably been told by a repair shop that your car’s shocks and/or struts are blown. What exactly does this mean? Your car seems to ride ok, so what is the problem? First you must understand what a shock or strut does and how they are made. Some cars have struts and shocks, some have all struts and some have all shocks. Not sure what your car has, just ask. What is the difference?

Both do basically the same thing. There are two different designs. They are meant to dampen the coil or leaf spring oscillation – the up and down movement. Plus, they are a stabilizing factor in ride control. The strut, who’s formal name is Macpherson Strut Assembly after the inventor, is an actual suspension assembly. The shock is a part of the suspension. Without either in place the car would bounce wildly down the road after hitting any sort of bump or dip in the road. The springs of the car are what actually absorb the shock, not the shock or the strut. Both use a hydraulic cylinder with internal valves that allow the shock/strut to compress at a controlled rate. Valve designs and somtimes the size of the cylinder are what make the units stiffer or softer. A bigger diameter does not always make for a stiffer or better shock.

The main task of both is to hold the tires to the road. They also assist in the handling of the car by controlling the body roll. If the shock or strut is weak these things will not happen. What tends to happen over time is for the ride to soften at such at gradual rate that most people do not notice it. You become accustomed to your car’s ride even though it has degraded.

So how do you tell if you need replacements? Visual checks will show signs of leaks of the hydraulic fluid. Some is normal as the piston moves up and down, anything that looks wet is too much. Excessive leaks give the idea of a “blown” shock. With loss of fluid the shock cannot do its job. Another tell-tale sign is tire wear: look for uneven wear on the edges of the tire. The industry term is “cupping” or “scalloping.” If you see this, your car may be bouncing too much. Does your car seem to sway, bounce, squat excessively at starts and stops or bottom out in bumps?

Have your car’s suspension checked out by a professional at least yearly, and also look for signs that your suspension needs repair yourself. Pay attention to the ride and see if it seems normal. Also have your alignment checked. You can save yourself money on tires and suspension repairs by closely watching your shocks and struts.

Can something that is working fine today go bad tomorrow?  Of course it can.  These are mechanical and electronic machines that break unexpectedly.  It happens daily.  Can these things be predicted?  Not without that infamous crystal ball.  All a shop can do is tell you what they can see and let you know what is going on.  You have to decide what to fix or service.  We can give some guidelines as to the life of some components, but this is still a guideline.  We cannot factor in your driving habits or conditions.

Our goal is to keep your car in good working order.  We consider your safety first and extending the life of the car next.  Records show that good, regular maintenance will allow the car to last many years and miles.  Other services such as injection cleaning will allow the car to perform better and be more economical to drive.  Simple steps like tire rotation and balance will extend the life of the tires, cause less wear on the suspension and steering.  All we can do is explain to you what we see.  You have to decide what is important to you.

Why does it seem that every time your vehicle is in a shop there is work needed that you did not anticipate?  Are the shops ripping you off?  Taking advantage of you?  On the other hand, are they simply good at their job and being thorough?  The truth is that all of this can happen in the world of repairs; be it cars, TVs, appliances, doctors or dentists.  Crystal balls just do not work like they used to.  Good technicians should examine your entire vehicle on most visits to the shop and at least point out those needs.

Every time you start your car, there is wear and tear.  When you drive, there is more wear and tear.  Fluids breakdown with time, temperature, and miles; brake parts wear with each application; shocks and struts wear with every little bump or bounce; steering components move and wear with every turn; switches switch and sensors sense non-stop; all contributing to the areas to be addressed by the technician.  There are multiple computers on cars, specialized fluids (NOTE: There are more types of antifreeze, oil, transmission fluids, and gear lubes than ever before.  Make sure the proper fluids are used in your vehicle.), many electronic controls, and ever-changing technology to deal with.  All this contributes to the needs of the car.

Conscientious technicians should take time to look at your car with every repair or maintenance.  Car manufacturers publish suggested schedules for most fluids and other areas of their vehicles to be changed or examined.  These are not always accurate.  Depending on how and where you drive and other conditions your vehicle may need more or less frequent services.  Some technicians have a more critical approach to taking care of you and your car and as a result will make recommendations accordingly.

In the diagnosis of a check engine light, there are enough scenarios to write a book.  Sometimes the light can come on because of a loose gas cap, which means there is a loss of vacuum in the evaporation system.  Many other items can trigger the same error code.  This can require more research and diagnostic time.  Other error codes will point to a sensor not working properly.  This doesn’t mean the sensor is bad, but operating outside of the set parameters because of another malfunction.  Again, this requires diagnostic time to find the real problem.  An error code indicates the area of the car that has a problem and the scan of the car’s computers will show that area, not necessarily the broken part.  Much like when you have a headache.  Is it really your head that hurts or could it be a tension headache, stiff neck, or other cause?

Can something that is working fine today go bad tomorrow?  Of course it can.  These are mechanical and electronic machines that break unexpectedly.  It happens daily.  Can these things be predicted?  Not without that infamous crystal ball.  All a shop can do is tell you what they can see and let you know what is going on.  You have to decide what to fix or service.  We can give some guidelines as to the life of some components, but this is still a guideline.  We cannot factor in your driving habits or conditions.

Our goal is to keep your car in good working order.  We consider your safety first and extending the life of the car next.  Records show that good, regular maintenance will allow the car to last many years and miles.  Other services such as injection cleaning will allow the car to perform better and be more economical to drive.  Simple steps like tire rotation and balance will extend the life of the tires, cause less wear on the suspension and steering.  All we can do is explain to you what we see.  You have to decide what is important to you.

One look at the instrument cluster on today’s car can be very confusing.  With indicators for lights out, washer fluid low, tire pressure, and so much more; how can one keep track of all this and what they all mean?  Can I ignore any of them?  Which are the most urgent and critical?  Again the easy answer is that you should not ignore any light that comes on. 

They are all meant to signal a problem of some sort; some more critical than others.  The most infamous of the lights is the check engine or the service engine soon light.  This indicator has been around for years now causing many anxious moments.  What do I do about these lights when they come on you ask.  When you have a light on simply talk with your local shop for advice or repair.  A flashing light indicates a serious problem and should be addressed immediately.

Several of the lights are for safety such as the ones for tire pressure or light out.  These are usually an easy fix.  Other light are for convenience such as low washer fluid.  A light on for ABS or Air Bag are safety related also are more critical and can indicate a more severe problem.  One note, when the ABS or Air Bag lights are on those systems are not working so these should be looked at immediately.  The ABS error also affects the car’s traction control systems.  We are all familiar with the check engine light.  This can indicate a serious problem or something as simple as a loose gas cap.  Nonetheless, these indicators should not be ignored.

We will talk about the more serious check engine and ABS lights. The lights simply indicate that something is operating outside of set parameters that a computer monitors.  There are many sensors in each of the car’s systems that send signals to the respective computers.  If there is no signal or the indicators are outside of the settings, the lights come on.  When a system is scanned to read these error codes, this does not show what the problem is, but where.   Additional diagnostics is required to find the true fault. 

A code for engine misfire can point to many possible problems.  Spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coils, and injectors can cause this code.   Other frequent codes are for oxygen sensor faults and catalytic converter efficiency.  Further diagnostics is required to determine the fix for these codes.  An ABS light indicates that the car’s antilock brake system is in error and not working.  Again there can be several causes for the error that need to be checked. 

Bottom line is to not ignore any light that is on.  Repairs can either save you from breaking down or from a traffic fine.  Have the light checked ASAP.  By the way, the most common error code we see is for an emission system vacuum leak that can be caused by a loose or missing gas cap, so always make sure the cap is tight. 

So, the next time you spend your hard earned money, stop and consider the effects of how and where that dollar is spent. Does this money come back to benefit me in any way or does it go off to some corporate account? Does this dollar help employ my neighbor, support my church, or my kid’s sports team? Does this person taking my money care if they ever see me again?

So now you have decided not to repair the car, and have to decide what to do with it. You can sell it or trade it in if buying another. One option many choose is to donate the car to a charity. There are many charities from which to choose ranging from local ministry organizations to those like Goodwill. You can deduct the true value of the car on your tax returns. If the car has no real value, you have the option to sell it as scrap metal or to a salvage yard. The repair shop can guide the best choice.

It can be a difficult decision when a car arrives at this point. There is so much to consider. You can ask the service writer at the shop if would fix this car if it were theirs. Do not let your heart guide your choice. This is a mechanical device with no feelings and it can be replaced. Be honest with yourself about the car and try to make a logical decision.

In these days of mega super-stores, chains and franchises, the locally owned and operated merchant is often forgotten. A few of the big store advantages are obvious – usually prices and options. What does the small neighborhood business have to offer? Much more than one may think.

The local owner will spend his personal money in the area – as do the employees. Property and sales taxes that they pay further add to the community’s coffers. A profitable business will allow the owner to contribute to charities, organizations such as Little League, schools, and more. Owners of small businesses tend to support other small businesses. Civic and social involvement of a small business owner has many tangible and intangible benefits. This all contributes to the circle of life in an area like Tri-Lakes.

By hiring local workers, the small business helps maintain the growth and stability of the Tri-Lakes community. Workers are not forced to find jobs miles away from where they live. You get to know those who are helping you or providing a service. You have a personal connection that is gone in most areas of our lives. Both parties have a personal interest in giving and receiving good service and the relationship that exists.

The small business has a much more vital interest in retaining your business than some big franchise. Long term customers are what the small business wants to maintain. It is less expensive to keep a customer than to attract new ones. In addition, good word of mouth far out-performs any other mode of advertising. The local business wants your loyalty.

So, the next time you spend your hard earned money, stop and consider the effects of how and where that dollar is spent. Does this money come back to benefit me in any way or does it go off to some corporate account? Does this dollar help employ my neighbor, support my church, or my kid’s sports team? Does this person taking my money care if they ever see me again?

So now you have decided not to repair the car, and have to decide what to do with it. You can sell it or trade it in if buying another. One option many choose is to donate the car to a charity. There are many charities from which to choose ranging from local ministry organizations to those like Goodwill. You can deduct the true value of the car on your tax returns. If the car has no real value, you have the option to sell it as scrap metal or to a salvage yard. The repair shop can guide the best choice.

It can be a difficult decision when a car arrives at this point. There is so much to consider. You can ask the service writer at the shop if would fix this car if it were theirs. Do not let your heart guide your choice. This is a mechanical device with no feelings and it can be replaced. Be honest with yourself about the car and try to make a logical decision.

This is a question we hear a lot lately. An older car or one with high miles is brought in for a problem and it turns out to be a rather expensive repair.

The question arises, “Is it worth fixing?” There is no absolute answer to that question. We can give our best advice based on what we know, but as we all know, things do happen. What factors do you consider in the evaluation?

When do I cut my losses?  What do I do with a car not worth the value of the repair?

Certainly one thing to consider is the history of the car.

Has it been reliable?

Have there been other repairs done?

How am I using the car?    Is it a second or third vehicle?

These are among the questions to answer before making a decision.

Also, do I want a car payment?

If the car has been repaired primarily at one shop, that shop should have its history and be able to determine its future. Maybe there is a foreseeable major repair coming soon; possibly it is in excellent condition. A car that is to be used locally will not have the same demands placed on it as one that is to be used on longer drives. Again, the shop can tell you what to expect.

Certainly one item to consider today is the car’s fuel economy. One that is fuel efficient is worth more than one that is a gas hog. Do not forget to look at other items such as tires which can be costly. What regular maintenance items are due to be serviced on the car?

So now you have decided not to repair the car, and have to decide what to do with it. You can sell it or trade it in if buying another. One option many choose is to donate the car to a charity. There are many charities from which to choose ranging from local ministry organizations to those like Goodwill. You can deduct the true value of the car on your tax returns. If the car has no real value, you have the option to sell it as scrap metal or to a salvage yard. The repair shop can guide the best choice.

It can be a difficult decision when a car arrives at this point. There is so much to consider. You can ask the service writer at the shop if would fix this car if it were theirs. Do not let your heart guide your choice. This is a mechanical device with no feelings and it can be replaced. Be honest with yourself about the car and try to make a logical decision.

 
One topic that often comes up questions what type of oil to use, synthetic or conventional oil?    What are the advantages of either?  What exactly is synthetic oil?  Are there other synthetic fluids to use in my car?  Is it worth the additional costs?  Does the use of synthetic oil require any other changes, such as maintenance intervals?

Synthetic oil has its origins in jets engines.  Due to the extreme conditions that exist in jet engines, a lubricant was needed to withstand the extreme heat and cold temps that aircraft endure.  Plus, the consequences of engine failure at 40,000 feet are a bit severe.  Not too many tow trucks at that altitude.  A retired flight commander started Amsoil Corporation and developed a synthetic oil for auto applications.  Major oil companies, such as Mobil, formulated synthetic products to compliment their conventional offerings.   There are also synthetic blends.  All oils use a base lubricant plus various additives to improve different aspects of the oil.  Viscosity, anti-foaming, and cleaning agents are added to improve the oils.  There are now synthetics fluids for most all applications in a car or truck.  Transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, gear lubes and more are available.
 

There is a right time and place to use both synthetic and conventional oil.  Newer, low mileage engines can last longer and run better with synthetic oils.  Synthetic oil is more free flowing, has better lubricating properties that last much longer than conventional oils that breakdown in a relatively short time.  Lower friction reduces the temperature of the engine and will extend engine life.  Engines with higher miles may do better with conventional oil due to the wear that comes with age.  These same benefits can cause a high mileage engine to use oil or leak.  A switch to thicker conventional oil may be best.  These properties serve to make a much superior gear and transmission lube.

You can extend the interval between oil changes within reason.  Remember, there is still the dirt and build up carried in both oils.  The additional cost of using synthetic fluids can be offset by increased life of the car, better fuel mileage, and reduced chance of breakdown.  You should still follow the carmaker’s recommendations regarding viscosity and change intervals.